Loudai Ancient Town, Huanglongxi and Chongqing
Location: L and H both a 45 minute bus ride from Chengdu, Chongqing is a two hour train ride away.
Famed For: Being pretty, laid back river towns, Chongqing is Chengdu's sister town.
'Laoshi, Rachel! Laoshi, Rachel!
E-I-E-I-O!'
-Student quote
of the week
'Old Macdonald Had A Farm' is perhaps one
of the most well-known children's nursery rhymes ever created. It is also now
the theme song of my kindergarten tots, who have latched onto its simple repeating
chorus with a tenacity that has surprised everyone, including me. Teaching
farmyard animals for a couple of weeks and having shown them the song (complete
with video) I have only myself to blame for their obsession.
I have, quite simply, created a monster.
E-I-E-I-O (the only words they truly
understand) is sung with gusto at every opportunity. Any new song that is
introduced is mistaken for their favourite classic and though I teach them
different words, some of the children resist and fit E-I-E-I-O into every
nursery tune we sing. They begin it spontaneously every time I come through the
class room door. Sometimes I even wake up humming it.
One lesson I decide we have sung it
enough and so I teach them 'One Finger, One Thumb' and the 'Hokey Cokey.' They
love it. But the look of disappointment on their faces as I pack up my things
at the end of the lesson and they realise we are not singing their farm song is
heart breaking. One little girl bursts into tears. I cave in and next week we
sing it. Twice.
Yes, they have me wrapped around their
tiny fingers.
In other teaching news, I end
up being the only teacher to turn up to English Corner this week. As it's not a requirement that G and I go, we only
appear occasionally as you end up fielding the same questions (Where are you
from? Why are you here? Do you like China? ) for over an hour.
Of course the
week I decide to make an appearance, I discover that the students are expecting
a lecture on exam practice, Joshua has gone home and Gregory and Mark are stuck
in Chengdu and won’t make it back in time. I am now left with over ninety
students, an hour to fill and no plan. Applause
begins inside the classroom as I am announced and I have no choice but to go in.
This feels like the beginning of a nightmare but unfortunately it is very, very
real. Which underscores the lesson I learn this week of always, always having a
backup plan.
Or an escape route.
Needless to say, my improvisational skills have a sudden and very steep learning curve and it's amazing how long sixty minutes can last when you have no idea what you are doing.
To add to my distress, this week I
discover that the canteen is feeding us spicy congealed pig blood and not spicy
dark brown tofu, which is what I’d thought (hoped) it was. It joins the chicken
heart as dishes that are Not Good.
The recent weekends on the other hand
have been mostly stress free. We go to Ciqikou porcelain village in Chengdu’s
sister city of Chongqing. It’s a beautiful warren of streets and shops, selling
everything from fluffy, golden egg custard tarts, to hand drawn fairytale style
pictures of China, carved wooden hairpins to Chairman Mao busts. It has signs
pointing you in the direction of temples and ice bars, aquariums and the intriguingly
named statue of ‘Young Married Woman and Little Peeing Boy’. We even get
upgraded at our hostel for being late and are given a double room with en-suite
instead of the six bed dorm we’d booked.
We visit Huanglongxi, a small peaceful
place with a bubbling creek slicing through the town centre before flowing into
the basin of the river. There are waterwheels and stepping stones carved like
giant turtles and a huge humped stone dragon emerging from the water to guard
the town. An enormous fountain sprays water up over a fat lipped bowl in the main
square, restaurants and tourist kiosks ring the centre, and it’s a pleasant
place to sit and eat lunch and watch the world go by, except K decides that now
is an appropriate time to attempt to choke to death on pork leg.
G and I take
the opportunity to debate whether she is actually choking or just having a
violent coughing fit, the various merits of offering K water, tissues and a
slap on the back, and the unfortunate fact that out of the three of us the only
one who actually knows First Aid is K. Surprisingly, K recovers without our
help, revealing she’d caught a tiny bone in her throat. Of course the only
remedy for almost dying is snacks, shopping and sweet fruit flower tea.
Fortunately, China has all three of these is abundance and the tea even comes
with a trio of very persistent old ladies attempting to give us a massage that
we don’t want.
Finally we visit Loudai, the home of the
Hakka people, where we are shown round for free by a student from the nearby tourism
college. He takes us to the local museum which reliably informs us that ‘Hakka
women are brave, strong and resilient […] and the men are imaginary.’ We visit a local Hakka woman making shoes, the
meeting houses of the Council, eat ice-cream, buy more souvenirs than is
probably healthy and get sung to by a group of teenage girls who seemingly
appear from nowhere and sweetly demand that we listen to them serenade us.
We have no idea
what they are singing, but it's keeping them happy so we just smile and nod
along and let them get on with it.
At least it's not
Old Macdonald Had A Farm.